Polki
Burgundy and white polki necklace and earrings
The appearance of polki is like a rather flat faced diamond. Polki are in fact uncut diamonds. As they have not been faceted, they do not have the same brilliance as cut diamonds. They are not measured in the same way by the fours Cs (cut, clarity, colour and carats), but the size and clarity will affect their price.
They are considerably cheaper than cut diamonds (anything from 50-80% less, depending on size and clarity etc). In polki jewellery sets it tends to be the gold setting and other gems (rubies and emeralds are a favourite combination) that push the price up, rather than the cost of the polki itself.
Whereas cut diamonds are most often set in a claw setting, polki is most frequently set in a champleve setting (a hollow with no claws).
Polki is especially popular in India for bridal jewellery. Ashwariya Rai wore some amazing polki necklace sets in the recent recreation of Jodhaa Akbar, so further reviving interest in this type of setting.
In her role as a 16th century Rajput princess of the Mughul era, Ashwariya was lucky enough to be wearing real polki, gold and gems, in jewellery sets especially recreated for the film.
Nowadays, most women who wear costume jewellery with a “polki” setting are so used to seeing such a setting in all manner of jewellery from earrings to anklets as well as pendants and necklace sets, that they do not realise that real polki are diamonds which are mined, not a synthetically created stone.
Green, red and white polki drop earrings
Artificial polki is available in an extensive range of colours and shapes. As with so many things, these synthetic versions cater for a wide range of budgets and quality varies hugely, from cheaper plastic “stones” to glass cut to resemble polki.
Is real polki worth buying? I would say most definitely yes as it can look amazing. Is artificial polki worth buying? Again, a resounding yes, in this case with the qualification that you should buy the best quality you can afford, as the cheaper versions do have a tendancy to look, well, cheap!
Antique gold and pearl bead polki necklace and earrings